My book came out one year ago today. Below is a short reflection on writing about a rapidly developing city. What has changed in the last 12 months? And what remains the same?
I was a young American Army officer who, for my final six months of duty, became a public affairs (press) officer, working at the Rex Hotel and in the Joint U.S. Public Affairs Office around the corner where all of that military junk is on display for tourists. Saigon was a formidable experience for a 23-year-old kid from Wisconsin. I worked with and got to know some of the top photojournalists and foreign correspondents in the business. I also came to despise our government’s purposeful, daily lying to the press and, hence, the American people. I returned home to graduate school and then a career grounded on the idea that at our best, we journalists hold the powerful and governments to account. And at the age of 80, I believe this just as strongly today as I did in 1968-1969 while nursing a beer with fellow officers atop the Rex or with the mighty at the Caravelle bar. After 24 trip back to Vietnam to work and teach, I still feel a nostalgia for the Saigon of old. Yes, the physical changes are remarkable. And the embrace of Vietnamese friends better than a therapist’s couch. But As I walk from the Rex, past the old Eden Building, now gone, and down Tu do Street past the old Brodard French bistro, also now gone, to the Majestic, I still fell that fire to commit ourselves to telling the truth, governments be damned. The Louis Vuitton and Gucci shops are just so much window dressing, literally. Saigon remains the formative city of my youth. BTW, I enjoyed your piece on Soul Alley. As a white guy (and officer) I went there with Black friends and colleagues for the soul music—and felt welcome.
Thanks so much for this comment Steven — when were you last in Saigon? Any trip planned for 2026? Would be great to chat about the city with you. I guess your first return trips started in the early 90s? My first visit was in 2000 or early 2001 (when I was living in Hanoi) — when it still felt like a very large sleepy town. I moved here in 2012 and even thinking about all the changes in the last 14 years is dizzying but we don't have to wander far to get that old time feelin' (and now I am thinking of a Guy Clark song).
Wonderful piece and absolutely true. Ever changing, ever present. I’m thankful that my in-laws place in Hoa Hung Ward is like amber while the world changes around them. Can’t wait to go home again!
Yes!! That’s a brilliant way of seeing those little micro ‘hoods — they stay the same while the rest of the universe swirls around it. The Hoa Hung ward is such a lovely little enclave.
Cheers Luke!! And Vonnegut acknowledged! Something about that recurring phrase — it’s been stuck in my head ever since I read Slaughterhouse Five, an age ago now.
There is no city that feels more like the center of the universe to me than Saigon. The fact that that universe is beholden to the forces of nature, and man's whims, does nothing to diminish its' spirit. I promise to "import" your book into VN my next trip there from the States and leave it in my AB&B for others to discover.
I was a young American Army officer who, for my final six months of duty, became a public affairs (press) officer, working at the Rex Hotel and in the Joint U.S. Public Affairs Office around the corner where all of that military junk is on display for tourists. Saigon was a formidable experience for a 23-year-old kid from Wisconsin. I worked with and got to know some of the top photojournalists and foreign correspondents in the business. I also came to despise our government’s purposeful, daily lying to the press and, hence, the American people. I returned home to graduate school and then a career grounded on the idea that at our best, we journalists hold the powerful and governments to account. And at the age of 80, I believe this just as strongly today as I did in 1968-1969 while nursing a beer with fellow officers atop the Rex or with the mighty at the Caravelle bar. After 24 trip back to Vietnam to work and teach, I still feel a nostalgia for the Saigon of old. Yes, the physical changes are remarkable. And the embrace of Vietnamese friends better than a therapist’s couch. But As I walk from the Rex, past the old Eden Building, now gone, and down Tu do Street past the old Brodard French bistro, also now gone, to the Majestic, I still fell that fire to commit ourselves to telling the truth, governments be damned. The Louis Vuitton and Gucci shops are just so much window dressing, literally. Saigon remains the formative city of my youth. BTW, I enjoyed your piece on Soul Alley. As a white guy (and officer) I went there with Black friends and colleagues for the soul music—and felt welcome.
Thanks so much for this comment Steven — when were you last in Saigon? Any trip planned for 2026? Would be great to chat about the city with you. I guess your first return trips started in the early 90s? My first visit was in 2000 or early 2001 (when I was living in Hanoi) — when it still felt like a very large sleepy town. I moved here in 2012 and even thinking about all the changes in the last 14 years is dizzying but we don't have to wander far to get that old time feelin' (and now I am thinking of a Guy Clark song).
Yes, Saigon is a very fluid city. Every time I visit (about once a month), I see new shops and newly shuttered familiar shops.
Not sure how I hadn’t bought the book before. Just remedied that with a Kindle purchase and look forward to reading it.
Thanks John!!! Hope you enjoy the book.
Wonderful piece and absolutely true. Ever changing, ever present. I’m thankful that my in-laws place in Hoa Hung Ward is like amber while the world changes around them. Can’t wait to go home again!
Yes!! That’s a brilliant way of seeing those little micro ‘hoods — they stay the same while the rest of the universe swirls around it. The Hoa Hung ward is such a lovely little enclave.
Nice! I enjoy these kind of reflection pieces. Vonnegut spotted 👀.
Cheers Luke!! And Vonnegut acknowledged! Something about that recurring phrase — it’s been stuck in my head ever since I read Slaughterhouse Five, an age ago now.
There is no city that feels more like the center of the universe to me than Saigon. The fact that that universe is beholden to the forces of nature, and man's whims, does nothing to diminish its' spirit. I promise to "import" your book into VN my next trip there from the States and leave it in my AB&B for others to discover.
Cheers, Greg! And I'm with you there on Saigon's un-diminish-able spirit! Drop me a line when you're next back over this way.